The famous surf beach a few kilometres north, all golden sand and cliffs, beautiful to visit even if you never paddle out.
Ribeira d'Ilhas is best known as a competition surf spot, but it is also a striking beach in its own right, backed by tall cliffs with a clifftop viewpoint and café. It is especially lovely in the late-afternoon light.
A few kilometres north of town, it sits in a long amphitheatre of cliffs, all golden sand and dark rock, with the ocean opening wide in front. As part of the World Surfing Reserve that runs along this coast, it carries a certain reputation, and the atmosphere is relaxed and surf-focused rather than resort-like.
There is a good strip of sand at low tide, shrinking as the water rises over the rocks. The draw here is the wave rather than the swim, a long, consistent right-hand break that works across many conditions, so the sea is often busy with surfers and moving water. It has its warmest, gentlest days in summer, but this is a surf beach first.
Swimming takes real care because of the rocks and currents, and lifeguard cover is geared to the peak season, so respect the flags where they fly, green for safe, yellow for wading, red for no swimming, and stay well clear of the rocks. If you are not surfing, the safest plan is to paddle at the sandy centre on a calm, low-tide day.
In season there is usually a café by the beach and a clifftop spot to sit, plus showers for surfers. It suits surfers of all levels on the right day, photographers, and anyone happy to watch the action from the sand or the viewpoint above with a coffee.
There is a large car park above the beach, and it is an easy drive or a longer coastal walk from town. On competition days it gets crowded and parking goes early, so arrive in the morning, and come back at the end of the day when the low sun lights up the cliffs and the surfers out on the point.