Arguably the best left in Portugal, a fast, slabby barrel over shallow reef that holds anything from two foot to twenty.
Just south of Praia da Empa, Pedra Branca is a connoisseur's wave: a hollow, fast left that breaks close to dry rock and rewards a committed, late takeoff. Locals will tell you it is the finest left on the whole Portuguese coast, and on its day it is hard to argue.
Even on a modest swell it is punchy and hollow, but it comes into its own on a solid north-west groundswell at low to mid tide. The takeoff is the crux, steep and dropping straight into the barrel section, and there is little margin for hesitation once you are committed.
The reef is unforgiving and the wave demands experience, fitness and respect for a tight local crew. It is consistent across a huge range of sizes, which is part of its reputation.
There are usually fewer people out than at Ribeira d'Ilhas, but those who are tend to be good and know the wave well. As a visitor, do not expect to paddle out and take your pick; sit wide, watch the rotation and take the scraps until you have shown you can hold your position.
Park up near Empa and it is a short walk to the edge. There are no facilities here, so come prepared. Check the tide carefully, because the reef that makes the wave so good is also what makes it dangerous when the water drops out of it.
This is genuinely shallow, with dry rock, urchins and board-snapping sections. Currents can pull you along the reef, and a mistimed wipeout puts you on the bottom fast. Booties are wise and a helmet is not a crazy idea. This is a wave for confident, experienced surfers only.
It is at its best in autumn and winter, on a clean NW swell with an offshore easterly. If it is beyond your level, Ribeira d'Ilhas nearby is far kinder, and the cliffs around Empa are a fine place to watch the Reserve's heavier waves do their thing. Before you decide, study it from the cliff for a full set or two, it gives away its rhythm and its danger to anyone patient enough to look.
